19. februar 2017

Highlights: New York Fashion Week AW17

Image: PR

New York Fashion Week er slut, og ugen bød på Raf Simons første kollektion for Calvin Klein, den amerikanske design duo, Proenza Schoulers farvel til New Yorks modeuge og The Business of Fashions hvide statement-kampagne ”tien together”, som første gang blev båret frem på catwalken af Gigi Hadid ved Tommy Hilfigers show på Venice Beach, og resten af den amerikanske modeuge var at spotte på både modeller og blandt publikum. Kampagnen er en reaktion på Donald Trumps intention om at bygge en mur imellem USA og Mexico, og blev under New York Fashion Week modebranchens måde at tage afstand fra initiativet, ved at signalere åbenhed og inklusion, og at man qua. den fælles modeforståelse er ”tied together” uanset kultur og hjemland. Og den åbenhed, som den amerikanske modebranche forsøger at vise, kom også til udtryk på catwalken, hvor et cast af modeller i alle størrelser og farver dominerede catwalken. Kritiske stemmer pointerede imidlertid, at eksempelvis et statement på en bandana ikke er nok, hvis modebranchen for alvor skal bevæge sig fra holdning til handling. Modebranchen skal passe på med at ende i en fælde af populisme og strø om sig med statements alt efter, hvad man tror, folk køber ind i. I stedet skal modebrandsene handle og på en legitim og håndgribelig måde fortælle deres forbrugere, at de bekymrer sig om de problematikker, som der demonstreres imod, lød kritikken.

I tendensernes øjemed bød New Yorks modeuge på et comeback til jakkesættet og masser af work wear. Kig med herunder og se hvorfor vi har udvalgt netop tre følgende shows fra New Yorks Fashion Week AW17.

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New York Fashion Week AW17 is a wrap and the week revealed Raf Simon’s first collection for Calvin Klein, the American design duo Proenza Schouler’s last collection on American ground and The Buiness of Fashion’s statement-campaign “tied together”, printed on a white bandana and first revealed by Gigi Hadid at the Tommy Hilfiger show at Venice Beach. The white bandanas quickly took the New York fashion scene by storm on both the catwalk and among fashion professionals and the campaign is an attempt to take a stand against president Trump’s intention of building a wall between his homeland and Mexico. And the openness and diversity, that the fashion industry in New York attempted to express by wearing the bandana was also highlighted in the selections of runway models being of different sizes and colors. But critics claim that the fashion industry must be careful not to fall into the trap of copying what they think their audience want. Fashion brands should find a legitimate way of signalizing that they care about the problems which they are making statements against instead of just printing a popular statement in order to sell more t-shirts, the critics claimed.

In the eye of the new trends, Vogue’s Anna Wintour claimed the return of the pantsuit and workwear was popular at the New York fashion scene AW17. Read our review from three selected shows here!

Image: Vogue
Proenza Schouler AW17
Ifølge The New York Times designer duoen bag Proenza Schouler, Jack McCollough og Lazaro Hernandez, til “kvinder ikke børn”, og de er navnlig kendt for deres elegante frakker og lækre detaljer som fx stål, der er slebet så fint, at det fanger lyset i alle regnbuens farver. Men AW17 showet fra de to talentfulde designeres hånd blev (ind til videre) det sidste på amerikansk grund. Proenza Schouler vil nemlig satse på Paris’ modeuge i fremtiden.
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According to the New York Times, the designers of Proenza Schouler, Jack McCollough og Lazaro Hernandez, designs to ”women not kids” and their designers are beloved for their elegant outerwear and details like heated steel that takes on a rainbow sheen. But the AW17 collection from the duo was (for now) the last on American ground as Proenza Schouler will be showcasing in Paris next season.



Image: Vogue
Victoria Beckham AW17
Victoria Beckham er en travl forretningskvinde og mor til fire, og derfor ynder hun at designe til kvinder ligesom hende selv: Travle karrierekvinder som ønsker at se chicke og professionelle ud, uden at være nødt til at gribe efter en blazer og dertilhørende nederdel. De grafiske prints der prydede AW17 kollektionen var desuden inspireret af en Paul Nash udstilling på Tate Britain.
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Victoria Beckham is a busy woman running her own fashion label and being a mother of four. And her designs reflect exactly how she needs to be dressed to get through the day of motherhood and fashion business: Chic, professional and practical all at the same time. The chic and cleverly styled workwear was mixed with graphic prints inspired by a Paul Nash exhibition at Tate Britain.


Image: Vogue

Calvin Klein AW17 
Raf Simons første kollektion for Calvin Klein blev modtaget i spænding og afslørede en ren design dna, i overensstemmelse med det amerikanske hus tradition. Djævlen lå i detaljen, og fx lod Diors tidligere chefdesigner alt fra skræddersyede suits til en fantastisk gul pelsjakke og cocktailkjoler med fjer indhylle i et transparent lag af plastic.
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The first collection from Raf Simons for Calvin Klein was received with excitement and the AW17 collection revealed a clean design dna in accordance with the tradition of the American house. Is was the details that made the designs stand out – for instance, the former creative director of Dior had devoted a fair bit of attention to the great American plastic couch cover, slipping transparent plastic over everything from plaid tailoring to a sensational yellow-gold fur coat and feathered cocktail dresses.

9. februar 2017

En tur til Venice Beach / A trip to Venice Beach

Images: PR
Bedst som vi har lært de danske designeres bud på AW17 kollektionerne at kende, skal vi forholde os til noget nyt. For moden står aldrig stille og i går, onsdag d. 8. februar, viste Tommy Hilfiger sit bud på tøj til den kommende sommersæson i Los Angeles på Venice Beach. Tommy Hilfiger er nemlig et af de store modehuse, som er gået forrest med den nye forretningsmodel, see-now-buy-now, som i alt sin enkelthed går ud på, at du kan købe det, du ser på catwalken med det samme. 

Se også: Burberry gør op med det traditionelle modeshow 

Men Tommy Hilfiger lader sig ikke nøje med at være med på den nyeste forretningsdille. På Venice Beach har han nemlig opført et ”TommyLand” som efter sigende skulle være en ”West Coast fashion festival”, hvor forbrugeren er inviteret med indenfor i Hilfigers univers. For ligesom at see-now-buy-now tendensen er en måde at demokratisere moden ved at give forbrugerne adgang til de eftertragtede looks direkte efter, at de vises på catwalken, så er hensigten med TommyLand på Venice Beach også, at alle Tommy Hilfigers kunder skal med til modefesten. Og designeren har gjort det før, da han i efteråret åbnede et Tommy-cirkus på havnen i New York. Efteråret var desuden startskuddet på Tommy Hilfigers nye see-now-buy-now model, og det look, som Tommy-pigen, Gigi Hadid havde på da hun åbnede showet, blev på få dage udsolgt efter showet. Det skal dog blive spændende at følge med i, om de succesfulde salg var en døgnflue som følge af hypen om det nye koncept, eller om Tommy  Hilfiger kan få sig en ny pengemaskine ud af see-now-buy-now.

Læs også: Tommy Hilfiger i lækkert selskab med it-parret Olivia og Johannes

Det er dog sikkert og vist, at Tommy Hilfiger ikke spare på topmodellerne, når de nye klæder skal vises frem. På Venice Beach var det dermed Gigi Hadid, som åbnede showet, efterfulgt af søsteren Bella Hadid og topmodel Joan Smalls – blot for at nævne et par af de store modelnavne på Tommys catwalk.

Rigtig mange af de styles, som celebrities som Lady Gaga og Fergie fik at se fra deres pladser på første række, var forbeholdt de få, som kan vise sin mave frem. Der var nemlig ikke sparet på 90’ernes crop tops som Tommy Hilfigers stylister havde stylet med stramme bukser, shorts eller nederdele. Kollektionens æstetik var gennemsyret af den amerikanske tradition for store behageligt tøj og sportswear som ved spring/summer ’17 med sine mavetoppe, denim og metallic havde fået et touch af 90’erne.

Se Lady Gaga på front row, backstagebilleder og videoen fra showet under den engelske tekst.

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Fashion never sleeps and Copenhagen is just a tiny player on the global fashion scene. Therefore, it is not a second too soon to turn our attention away from Copenhagen Fashion Week and focus on the wide world of fashion.

And today special attention is payed to Venice Beach in Los Angeles where Tommy Hilfiger threw his spring/summer 2017 show yesterday, on Wednesday, February 8th. Once again, the brand presented the see-now-buy-now business model that allows the consumer to buy the products fresh from the runway. In the fall of 2016, Tommy Hilfiger was one of the brands to introduce this new business concept and the opening look, worn by Gigi Hadid was sold out a few days after the show. 


Tommy Hilfiger claims that he is democratizing fashion by inviting his customers to buy the clothes immediately after they are shown on the runway but another democratizing move is to create a Tommy-festival in the wake of his show. For fall 2016 he had set up a Tommy-circus by the harbor of Manhattan and with the SS17 collection follows a Californian Fashion Festival, which these days be found at Venice Beach attracting customer’s into the Tommy Hilfiger universe of fashion commerce.

And money is also spent on Tommy Hilfiger’s model cast, which (yet again) featured Tommy-girl Gigi Hadid as the first model on the runway. She was followed by Bella Hadid and Joan Smalls – just to name a few of the super models at the SS17 Hilfiger runway.

Front row celebrities like Lady Gaga were presented to a Tommy-look that embraced the American dress dominated by sportswear and comfortable clothes – but if you want to fit into the styles on the SS17 runway you will have to give up fast food and the comfortable couch. The cropped top has come to stay and at Hilfiger the tiny top was styles with tight jeans and skirts or shorts. References to the 90’ties were underlined by Hilfiger’s love of denim and metallic styles gave the collection the final touch of the 90’ties.

See Lady Gaga who stole the front-row, backstage pictures and watch the video from the show:  





5. februar 2017

Til de udvalgte? / For the chosen ones?

Images: Copenhagen Fashion Week

MUF10 AW17, CIFF, 2. februar 2017, Copenhagen Fashion Week

 Lige som et par andre nye designere, debutrede MUF10 med deres første show til Copenhagen Fashion Week. Sammenlignet med andre new-comers, har MUF10 allerede fået en del opmærksomhed, og deres styles har været set i gadebilledet de sidste par sæsoner. Deres oversized jakker, med det velkendte “Familie f / r para”, har nemlig været en fast del af modeugernes street styles.

Designer Reza Etamadi beskriver Muf10s strategi således: “In the beginning only the chosen ones got to wear the custom made pieces and the idea was to make it only available for his (Reza Etamadi’s) inner circle.” Denne strategi har virket godt for MUF10, som sikrede sig meget omtale inden debut showet.

Med tunge beats i luften, inviterede MUF10 dermed på et show inspireret af gadens hårde typer, mixet med en klar vision for high-end fashion. De fremviste styles var overvejende i gade-genren, hvilket også er der, hvor MUF10 brænder igennem. To store Freja-lastbiler satte scenen for showet, hvilket var passende til dets attitude og coolness. MUF10s valg af Freja-lastbiler, samt Freja-logo som print, minder desuden om den måde, som Vetements har brugt DHL.

Kollektionen indeholdte både styles til mænd og kvinder, og både sensommer set og overtøj til efterårets kolde dage. Muf10s outerwear var kollektionens stærkeste elementer, og de var tilføjet nye detaljer og udtryk - Hvilket understreger, at efteråret kalder på endnu flere oversized jakker!

Med AW17 showet bevidste MUF10, at de kan leve op til hypen, og tog med dette show et skridt i retningen af et bredere publikum og større opmærksomhed. Nogle styles vil nok forblive “for the chosen ones”, men det er et spørgsmål om tid, inden MUF10s basic styles bliver et must-have.

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Among a few other designers, MUF10 debuted at Copenhagen Fashion Week. In comparison to other debutant has MUF10 created a great hype already, and their styles have been seen in the streets during the last couple of seasons. The oversized jackets with the recognizable print of “Familie f / r para” have been permanent in the street style of the fashion weeks.

Designer behind Reza Etamadi’s describes Muf10s strategy in the following way: “In the beginning, only the chosen ones got to wear the custom-made pieces and the idea was to make it only available for his (Reza Etamadi’s) inner circle.” This strategy seemed to work for MUF10, as they ensured great attention before their first show.

With a heavy beat playing, MUF10 threw a show inspired by the toughness of the streets, mixed with an approach towards high-end fashion. The styles did not take it much further than the street, but that is also were MUF10 is shining. And with the scenery of the Freja trucks, MUF10 delivered a show full of attitude and coolness. The scenery and the Freja-logo also reflects how Parisian Vetements worked with DHL.

The collection included both men’s and women’s wear and a mix of late-summer items and colder-day- jackets. The outerwear stood out the most, and included some new features and shapes - something that calls for another season of oversized jackets.

MUF10 proved the hype right, and with the AW17 show, the brand took a step in the direction of commercialization and a broader approach. Some styles might still be for “the chosen ones” and the street styles, but it is a matter of time, before MUF10’s more basic wear will be a must-have for the kids on the street.

Words by Johanne Jacobsen.





Via Design foldede talenterne ud / At Via Design talents were unfold


Images: Copenhagen Fashion Week

VIA Design Graduate Show 2017, CIFF, 2. Februar 2015, Copenhagen Fashion Week

Under Københavns modeuge viste VIA Design endnu en gang, hvad deres nyuddannede og talentfulde designere kan. Og som en del af den officielle showlokation på messen CIFF ved Bella Centeret, slog designskolen sit navn fast blandt de mange etablerede designere, som også viste deres show i den store grå hal.

At man på designskolen i Herning bliver uddannet i modens svære kunst, at kombinere det kreative med det kommercielle, var tydeligt ved showet, og de unge designere havde givet den gas med kreativiteten dog uden at gå på kompromis med det faktum, at tøjet også skal kunne sælges. Modige farvevalg, sjove detaljer, voluminøse og skarpe silhuetter samt statements som fx jakker, der var syet sammen af flere forskellige dele, satte fokus på dels det gode design dels på det faktum, at vi skal spare på jordens ressourcer – ved fx at genbruge materialer til et helt nyt style. De unge designere legede også med konventionerne for herre-og dametøj og præsenterede flere forskellige bud på nederdele til mænd, samt andre sjove styles, der hang på en herremodel men lignede noget som en pige lige så godt kunne gå i.

Via Designs nye talenter viste på hver deres individuelle måde, at de mestrer en kombination af moderigtige designs (der var masser af svaj i benene, cropped tops og løse silhuetter) og en kreativ og legende tilgang til moden. Herfra skal der lyde et stort tillykke til alle de nyuddannede designere!

Herunder kan du se nogle af de styles, som designerne viste:

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Once again, the design graduates from VIA Design showed the audience of Copenhagen Fashion Week what they have learned at the design school. And this year, the show was held at the official location of CIFF thus letting the design students show their collections alongside the established brands of Copenhagen Fashion Week.

At Via Design emphasis is made to teach the student how to combine creativity with commerciality.  Thus, creative styles, bold colors, voluminous and sharp silhouettes were presented together with an eye for contemporary fashion: Cropped tops, flared pants and loosely fitted shirts and pants. Also, the young designers made statements of both unisex clothing and the need for a sustainable design approach by showing styles which were stitched together by different pieces of fabrics and an experimental attitude towards how we interpret men’s and women’s wear.

All together the design graduates of Via each gave us their individualistic take on the future of fashion and we wish them luck in their future careers!

See some of the styles from the design graduates below:









Talent for et tvist / A flair for a twist

Images: Copenhagen Fashion Week

Tonsure AW17, CIFF, 1. februar 2017, Copenhagen Fashion Week

Til trods for at Tonsure kun har eksisteret siden 2013, har duoen bag mærket, Malte Flagstad og Adam El- Zayat, allerede opnået international succes og anerkendelse. Først vandt Tonsure designprisen, Dansk Design Talent - Magasin Prisen, i 2015 og derefter blev Tonsure også indstillet som vinder af den internationale designpris, Woolmark Prize, men vand ikke ved den endelige finale som blev afholdt i januar.

Og den internationale succes skyldes sandsynligvis Tonsures talent for at tage klassiske elementer fra herregarderoben og give dem et kreativt tvist hist og her.  F.eks. var en jakke designet som en typisk denimjakke men var udført i flot sælskind, hvilket gav den en lækker og interessant finish. Uldfrakker var stylet med pelskraver og en smule oversize, og den klassiske herrevest havde fået et tvist i form af læder og  en friskt grønt farve. Med andre ord: Tonsure formår at bruge de klassiske elementer fra herregarderoben og give dem ny energi, dog uden at designet mister sin integritet og appeal til den helt almindelige mand, som gerne vil være smart uden at skille sig alt for meget ud fra mængden.

Men et sjovt element hist og her må gerne dukke op på catwalken, og modens behov for kreativitet og fornyelse havde Tonsure løst ved at lade nogle af sine modeller betræde catwalken iført kæmpe dynebukser a la Michelin-manden, som de dog mestrede at bevæge sig i med elegance. De sjove bukser syntes at være Tonsures bud på dynejakken en trend, som vi for tiden ser udformet i mange forskellige afskygninger. Det skal blive spændende at se, om Tonsure ved næste AW show, viser os deres bud på en mere traditionel version af dynejakken.   

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The Danish menswear label, Tonsure was founded in 2013 but despite its short life span, the design duo behind the label, Malte Flagstad and Adam El- Zayat, has already experienced success. In 2015 Tonsure won the prize for new Danish talents, Dansk Design Talent - Magasin Prisen and they represented Europe at the international design competition, Woolmark Prize but did not win in the final.

Tonsure’s key to success is probably their ability to take classic elements from men’s wardrobe and twist them here and there. For instance, classic wool coats were designed a bit oversized and a men’s vest was made in leather in a bright green color with a fury pocket by the right chest. The experimental yet downplayed take on men’s wear was also seen in the design of a classical denim jacket, which was made in sealskin giving it an interesting and elegant look.

In other words: Tonsure masters the difficulty of renewing men’s dress without excluding all of those men who do not want to stand out from the crowd – or who do not work in fashion, which is a lot of men! But a funny and creative element is always allowed on the catwalk and Tonsure’s way of welcoming creativity was to dress some of their models in giant pants that made them look like the Michelin Man from the hips and down. The pants could be Tonsure’s attempt to create a new piece of clothing inspired by the duvet jacket, which we see in all shapes and sized from the designers these days. And we can only wait to see if Malte Flagstad and Adam El- Zayat will give us their interpretation of the jacket next time the AW season comes along. 





4. februar 2017

Boho-attitude

Images: Copenhagen Fashion Week

Munthe AW17, Copenhagen Skatepark, 2. februar 2017, Copenhagen Fashion Week

Naja Munthe brugte Copenhagen Skatepark som location for sit AW17 show, og skaterdrenge åbnede dermed showet efterfulgt af topmodellen Nadja Bender og de andre Munthe modeller. Stilen var et miks af budskaber, og ville rigtig mange ting på én og samme tid: Street attituden blev understreget af skaterhallens rå omgivelser, de vige kassebukser med slids i siden og fartstriber op af benet ledte tankerne hen på 90’ernes modedronninger på gadeplan, mens ponchoer, bløde flæser og plisseringer gav den et strejf af 1970’erne. Og som om der ikke var referencer nok, krydrede Naja Munthe hele molevitten med prints a la The Rolling Stones røde læber, mens printet ”Ok So i Lied” var at finde på hvide t-shirts, som kunne købes direkte efter showet. Naja Munthe har nemlig lige lanceret en kampagne i samarbejde med en række bloggere, der handler om at sige sandheden og stoppe med at polere virkeligheden gennem sociale medier.
Med sine referencer til 90’ernes street style var det ikke alt ved Munthes AW17 kollektion, som var kønt, men holdt Naja Munthe fast i dele af sit oprindelige talent for et gennemført lækkert boheme look. Favoritter fra kollektionen var dermed de plisserede nederdele med guldkanter og kjoler i 70’er flæser, som berigede showet til sidst. Naja Munthe gav desuden publikum endnu et statement, da hun ved showets afslutning indtog skaterhallen iført en t-shirt med påskriften ”pussy grabs back”: En kommentar til Trumps skandaløse udtalelser om kvinder og en hashtag-tendens på de sociale mediere, som i en tid hvor mange designere udtaler sig politisk om Trump, sagtens kunne have stået alene og fungeret som det overordnede tema for kollektionen.
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Copenhagen Skatepark was the location of designer Naja Munthe’s take on AW17. Thus, a gang of skaters opened the show followed by the top model Nadja Bender and her fellow model colleagues. The style was a mixture of references and messages and reached in many directions. The street attitude was underlined by the rough surroundings of the skate park and the flared pants with stripes and slits by the ankles made one think about the street style queens of the 90’ties. Ponchos and pleated skirts and dresses gave the collection a soft 70’ties vibe. The read lips of The Rolling Stones were spread out on t-shirts and dresses and the printed text “Ok So I lied” was found on white t-shirts, which were Naja Munthe’s take on the see-buy-now tendency and thus available to buy online immediately after the show. The t-shirts are also part of a new campaign where Naja Munthe has teamed up with some bloggers in the attempt to tell an honest story and advocate against the edited truth of the social media.
It was not the references to the streetwear of the 90’ties that contributed to the prettiness of the collection but luckily it also contained the bohemian vibe that Naja Munthe masters very well. The collection’s soft shapes from the 1970’ties were thus our favorite style reference but as Naja Munthe took the stage by the end of the show another statement was on the agenda: She was wearing a white t-shirt with the text “pussy grabs back” and thus made a comment on president Trump’s scandalous comments on women. The statement is also a hashtag-tendency on social media and in a time where fashion designers are likely to reveal their opinions about the new American president, it could have worked well as the overall theme of the collection.








   

Made In Ishøj!


Images: Copenhagen Fashion Week

Trine Lindegaard AW17, Søpavillonen, 1. februar 2017, Copenhagen Fashion Week

Den danske designer Trine Lindegaard er efterhånden kendt, og anerkendt, for hendes alternative tilgang til mode. Med en stor kærlighed til diversitet, fremhæver Lindegaard for hver ny kollektion en ny social historie. 

Denne gang satte Søpavillionens berygtede mørke rum rammerne for en fortælling om lokale stereotyper fra Ishøj. “Made In Ishøj’” var nogle af modellerne muligvis også, som stolt fremviste AW17 kollektionen fra Lindegaard hånd. Historien kunne ikke have været fortalt mere tydeligt. Der var en rød tråd gennem hele showet, fra sammeholdet blandt det frivillige crew, de kolde mokai i baren, til de halv-gule læder beklædte bænke opstillet til showet. Bænke, som nok har været hvide engang, men bære præg af brug. 

Der var arbejdet i klare farver, og holdt fast i broderiet som er ved at blive en fast del af Lindegaard universet. Overordnet set, fungerer de mandligere styles bedst, trods de unisex prægede designs. Påsatte patches med statements som “plastikperker”, “klamydiaslottet” og “brøndbypalme”, gjorde samarbejdet mellem designer og de lokale så tydeligt, at det næsten kræver en oversættelse for udefrakommende. Ud over det sociale perspektiv fokuserer Lindegaard også på produktion, bæredygtighed og det fælles ansvar. 


Det var dejligt at dele bænk med både den internationale presse, og de gode hænder bag kollektionen. Trine Lindegaard tilføjer den danske modescene nogle ærlige livsfortællinger, altid fortalt i en humoristisk, oprigtig og kærlig tone. 

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The Danish designer Trine Lindegaard is by now known for her alternative way of approaching fashion. With a great care for diversity, Lindegaard is for every new collection emphasising a new social story. 

The show took place in the dark rooms of the legendary Søpavillionen, which set the scene for the story of local stereotypes from Ishøj. Some of the models properly also were “Made In Ishøj”, and they proudly presented the AW17 collection from Lindegaard. The story was very clear. The strong theme were proven all the way from the commitment of the volunteering crew, the cold mokai drinks served in the bar, and to the smoke-white, fake leather covered benches. Benches which properly have been clean and white at some point but now with a used and rough look. 

The collection were made in strong colours, and included some embroidery which is becoming a permanent part of the Lindegaard universe. The mens’ styles took the main focus, and worked out the best, even though all of the styles were unisex inspired. Statement patches like “plastikperker”, “klamydiaslottet” and “brøndbypalme” almost called for a translation for non-locals, and proved the close relation between designer and Ishøj-youngsters. Besides the social aspects Lindegaard also focuses on production, sustainability and social responsibility. 


It was delightful to sit next to a mix of international press and some of the local volunteers. Trine Lindegaard adds some honest human perspectives to Danish fashion, and she always does it in a humorous, honest and loving way.

Words by Johanne Jacobsen